Best 17.5 blinky 1/10 2wd buggy motor
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#1
Best 17.5 blinky 1/10 2wd buggy motor
I know this is a broad question but got a new B6.1 and we are going to 17.5 blinky in this class and I have to buy a new motor and want to be sure I get the best one I can right off the bat. We race indoor on carpet.
#2
Tech Elite
iTrader: (39)
The unfortunate part of your question is that currently there really isn't a "fastest" motor out there. Some cheap motors can be tuned to rip as hard as the expensive factory certified motors. And the expensive motors can sometimes come out of the box as duds. So there are a lot of options out there. ORCA Blitreme, Wurks R1, Maclan Team Edition v2, Trinity certified motors, Schuurspeed Xtreme Spec, Tekin Gen3 Spec-r. And more I'm probably missing.
#3
Ok then...if you were going to buy one of those motors which one would you buy?
#4
Tech Elite
iTrader: (39)
I am one that usually sticks to a motor brand that has done well for me unless something goes catastrophically bad. So I would recommend the Maclan Team Edition v2 motor. I have a few of them and granted I wouldn't consider them faster than anything else out there, they have allowed me to gear my buggies to the moon without overheating the motor and their torque numbers are pretty phenomenal. If you prefer lower gearing (IE: smaller pinion, bigger spur) then I would probably recommend the Tekin Spec-r motor. It usually requires 4-5 less teeth on the pinion to get the top speed you'd want, but it can get very warm unless you add a fan inside the chassis.
#5
Tech Regular
I just went through this and bought the Orca blitreme. Late last year some guys started driving around me down the straight and they had just got the new R1 and Fantom motors. I got the Orca because it was released 6 months later so I figured it was the latest so may have an advantage, and I got a great deal on the B32 ESC to go with it so it stacked up well compared to the other options from the price point of view too.
I sit mid pack and am not chasing 10ths so it really didn't matter if I had the absolute best or one of the best. I'm also not keen to buy a few and test them to find the fastest. Unfortunately we've had a run of bad weather and I race outdoors so I haven't run it properly yet to give proper feedback.
I sit mid pack and am not chasing 10ths so it really didn't matter if I had the absolute best or one of the best. I'm also not keen to buy a few and test them to find the fastest. Unfortunately we've had a run of bad weather and I race outdoors so I haven't run it properly yet to give proper feedback.
#6
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (5)
I just got into 2wd this year. I have a Fantom motor paired with HW Juststock ESC and it has been awesome. Obviously I can't tell you from experience about the other brands. But I would buy another Fantom as I feel like my car runs as fast as any other 17.5 at my track. More about the driver at this point lol.
#7
Tech Champion
iTrader: (33)
I've been running a HobbyWing Justock paired up with a Trinity MonsterMax for the past year and it's done very well for me, as far as tuned motors go it's right up there with all the other expensive brands in the $150 range for a motor. I recently picked up a WTF fan for my motor over the summer and it was pulling too much current for the 2A BEC to handle the load. I upgraded to a HobbyWing V3.1 and that is doing a lot better for me, what I like the most is the brake control is significantly stronger than the brake on the Justock. Our club is also not a ROAR sanctioned track, so folks have recently been getting the Trinity Punisher and that motor is quickly becoming the most popular one to get. It's not a ROAR approved motor, only cost $75 and it's by far the most powerful stock spec motor there is... not necessarily the fastest on the straights, but clearly tons more torque and faster acceleration... you have to gear up a couple more teeth than a normal ROAR approved motor. Check around your club, if anyone is running a Punisher, then that's the motor to get I dropped almost a full second on my lap times from 22.5 sec average to 21.5 sec average with the Punisher at the club in my area, I'm probably within a half sec of some of the pros in my area now
Last edited by billdelong; 08-08-2018 at 07:04 AM.
#8
I built myself a blinky 2wd this year. Being the first time I've raced(or owned anything radio control) since 2008, I decided to stick with what I knew; Tekin and Trinity. I bought a Tekin RS Spec and Trinity Monster Horsepower 17.5 (Team edition I believe. NOT the $170 one). So far this pair has been absolutely incredible. 52° of timing(and a fan) geared 29/69 with a direct drive and it is noticeably faster than many of the other setups on track. Mid range is about average, but low end grunt and top end power is just fantastic. I can usually make up for my mistakes with top speed on the back straight.
I also have a Tekin Gen 3 Spec-R in my stock wheeler That is another amazing motor so long as you pay attention to the gearing requirements. Low end grunt isn't quite impressive but the powerband is unbelievably smooth(likely due to the large rev range, and high top end). I am a very gentle driver, so that setup works well for me.
I also have a Tekin Gen 3 Spec-R in my stock wheeler That is another amazing motor so long as you pay attention to the gearing requirements. Low end grunt isn't quite impressive but the powerband is unbelievably smooth(likely due to the large rev range, and high top end). I am a very gentle driver, so that setup works well for me.
#9
Can you drive an entire race at pace without crashing? If not then it doesn't really matter which motor you have. If you crash a bunch, the highest powered motor is not going to mean anything more than your car going a tiny bit faster when you crash.
17.5 racing is all about momentum and corner speed. If you get motored on the straight, it is very very likely because the person motoring you took the corner before the straight better than you did. Starting with a lower power motor forces you to learn how to carry corner speed. As a kid I would often have less powerful motors and batteries than most of the top local guys (ah the good old days of brushed motors and round cell batteries). This forced me to learn to get everything I could out of what I had.
The best motor for you is whichever motor you can get that fits comfortably within your budget. When you can consistently string together 5 minutes of laps, all within a half a second of each other, and within a half a second of your fastest lap, then you can worry which motor is going to decrease your lap times.
I wouldn't think I would have to mention this to someone who has been a member here as long as you have, but there is a Radio and Electronics section on RCTech. This question definitely belongs there. People have asked this same question in the Radio and Electronics section (and here) numerous times, and the range of answers are always the same. Most people will suggest what they are using, very few people will really answer your question.
17.5 racing is all about momentum and corner speed. If you get motored on the straight, it is very very likely because the person motoring you took the corner before the straight better than you did. Starting with a lower power motor forces you to learn how to carry corner speed. As a kid I would often have less powerful motors and batteries than most of the top local guys (ah the good old days of brushed motors and round cell batteries). This forced me to learn to get everything I could out of what I had.
The best motor for you is whichever motor you can get that fits comfortably within your budget. When you can consistently string together 5 minutes of laps, all within a half a second of each other, and within a half a second of your fastest lap, then you can worry which motor is going to decrease your lap times.
I wouldn't think I would have to mention this to someone who has been a member here as long as you have, but there is a Radio and Electronics section on RCTech. This question definitely belongs there. People have asked this same question in the Radio and Electronics section (and here) numerous times, and the range of answers are always the same. Most people will suggest what they are using, very few people will really answer your question.
#10
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (5)
Can you drive an entire race at pace without crashing? If not then it doesn't really matter which motor you have. If you crash a bunch, the highest powered motor is not going to mean anything more than your car going a tiny bit faster when you crash.
17.5 racing is all about momentum and corner speed. If you get motored on the straight, it is very very likely because the person motoring you took the corner before the straight better than you did. Starting with a lower power motor forces you to learn how to carry corner speed. As a kid I would often have less powerful motors and batteries than most of the top local guys (ah the good old days of brushed motors and round cell batteries). This forced me to learn to get everything I could out of what I had.
The best motor for you is whichever motor you can get that fits comfortably within your budget. When you can consistently string together 5 minutes of laps, all within a half a second of each other, and within a half a second of your fastest lap, then you can worry which motor is going to decrease your lap times.
.
17.5 racing is all about momentum and corner speed. If you get motored on the straight, it is very very likely because the person motoring you took the corner before the straight better than you did. Starting with a lower power motor forces you to learn how to carry corner speed. As a kid I would often have less powerful motors and batteries than most of the top local guys (ah the good old days of brushed motors and round cell batteries). This forced me to learn to get everything I could out of what I had.
The best motor for you is whichever motor you can get that fits comfortably within your budget. When you can consistently string together 5 minutes of laps, all within a half a second of each other, and within a half a second of your fastest lap, then you can worry which motor is going to decrease your lap times.
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#11
Can you drive an entire race at pace without crashing? If not then it doesn't really matter which motor you have. If you crash a bunch, the highest powered motor is not going to mean anything more than your car going a tiny bit faster when you crash.
17.5 racing is all about momentum and corner speed. If you get motored on the straight, it is very very likely because the person motoring you took the corner before the straight better than you did. Starting with a lower power motor forces you to learn how to carry corner speed. As a kid I would often have less powerful motors and batteries than most of the top local guys (ah the good old days of brushed motors and round cell batteries). This forced me to learn to get everything I could out of what I had.
The best motor for you is whichever motor you can get that fits comfortably within your budget. When you can consistently string together 5 minutes of laps, all within a half a second of each other, and within a half a second of your fastest lap, then you can worry which motor is going to decrease your lap times.
17.5 racing is all about momentum and corner speed. If you get motored on the straight, it is very very likely because the person motoring you took the corner before the straight better than you did. Starting with a lower power motor forces you to learn how to carry corner speed. As a kid I would often have less powerful motors and batteries than most of the top local guys (ah the good old days of brushed motors and round cell batteries). This forced me to learn to get everything I could out of what I had.
The best motor for you is whichever motor you can get that fits comfortably within your budget. When you can consistently string together 5 minutes of laps, all within a half a second of each other, and within a half a second of your fastest lap, then you can worry which motor is going to decrease your lap times.
#13
I really like my reedy s-plus motors. I have a 17.5 for my sportsmen buggy and 13.5 for my stadium truck. They are plenty fast, I actually don't push them too hard, run the timing down around 20deg on each motor. I could have done better and saved some money with a slower motor, as I would be more consistent, but I wanted a bit of power for jumps and fun.
There seems to be plenty of great motors that are fast enough to get you on the podium if your driving skills and setup are there too.
There seems to be plenty of great motors that are fast enough to get you on the podium if your driving skills and setup are there too.
#14
Tech Addict
Anything $100 plus is a good bet. I have a team powers but I also have team powers everything else
#15
motiv mc2 cant beat it for price and performance